Alastair\'s Blog

Posts Tagged ‘Winston Churchill’

Import and export

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Well this is it, really.  Park Lane is an importer;  every month we worsen the trade deficit a little bit as shipments of delicious bubbly head their way over to us from La Belle France.

All in the justification of needs must:  as Churchill reminded us (seemingly of Napoleon’s quote before him) “in victory we deserve it [champagne] and in defeat we need it”.  Simple.  You need it so we import it to keep the supply of personalised champagne flowing.

But I am amazed.  In this modern World where even the VAT returns must be filed online, the manual paperwork that accompanies each champagne import is huge with stern penalties if a single bit doesn’t get to the right place - whoever’s fault it is.Unloading French goodies at FrithSteady does it

And at the coal face, this is what it looks like when Eric (on this occasion) the French haulier pulls up at Frith straight off Le Tunnel ready to discharge 8 pallets of France’s finest.

Animals heading to FranceBUT, to redress the balance in part we have been delighted to send another tranche of animals across La Manche to the ever-fragrant and delicious Helena (and her hubby Patrick).  This was not without tribulation as “monsieur le chauffeur” encountered animal rights first hand; while having a tacho rest after leaving us before heading to Poole, his truck was pounced on and the police called.  I had to negotiate an emergency resolve (and get the woman lying down in front of the wheels in protest at the cruelty of moving animals - to move), as well as getting the Old Bill to let him on his way.  Oh, and did I mention the paperwork for live animal export?  No?  Probably best as it is beyond belief in complexity and depth: ministry license, animal health license, BCMS cross-check, TB test (don’t mention the badgers), vet inspection, journey log, etc.  Didn’t see a box for animal rights protesters, though.

Is this all a day in the life of?  Maybe.  Perhaps I need to have a word with new neighbour Peter Andre about getting an autobio going as I understand he has some experience in that arena?!

At least the beasts did not look too traumatised when they headed off in search of forage (or frog’s legs, or vin de table, or whatever) on arrival in France.

Les animaix arriventet encorenous sommes arrivees

Bonnes vacances!

Do bubbles add flavour?

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

It’s an interesting day when both The Guardian and the BBC run stories on champagne - and I wonder if it is coincidental that it is the same day that Gordon Brown is to address the Labour Party conference in Brighton?  Maybe Andrew Marr will suggest that the Prime Minister should take a leaf out of Winston Churchill’s leadership tactics and look to champagne for sustenance - now he has confirmed he does not rely on any prescription pills?!

No but seriously.  We all know champagne is uplifting - hence why it is the perfect drink for celebration and also why it can help alleviate black dog on our darker days.  There are an awful lot of aromas in a glass of champagne - lovely toasty and vanilla overtones all helped from lengthy bottle age (where the bottles age in the cellars in France before having the sediment removed via the disgorgement process) - as well as all the complexities of the grape blend.  To my mind, gentler bubbles (again substantially a feature of spending longer ageing in bottle) certainly help the drinker enjoy and experience the range of flavours the wine offers. I have covered before how our producers insist on a minimum 3 years age in bottle in the cellars for their non-vintage, as opposed to the legal minimum of 15 months.

I have always suspected that the champagne mousse (bubbles) exacerbate the underlying flavours and this so because all those bubbles have actually been formed in the bottle right at the start of the bottling process when the yeast were alive and feasting on the sugar in the raw blended wine.  It is this process - the second fermentation in bottle - that is the absolutely unique invention of the Champenois and thus why this technique of adding the fizz to sparkling wine was known as “Champagne Method” or “Methode Champenois”, before EU legislation (and protection of the Champagne Appellation) forbade it.

This area is a hoary chestnut - perfect to touch on as the conker season is in full throw;  mine’s a fourer…

Harvest yields

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

I am not trying to becomes the UK’s most prolific blogger and nor to create the most comprehensive champagne blog, but hopefully these jottings help you to sneak a peek under the petticoats of this amazing wine.

So in response to Toby,  the CIVC dictate how many kilos of grapes per hectare can be harvested.  As a rule of thumb guide, it takes 1kg of grapes to create one bottle (750ml) of champagne.  Typically the permitted yield is about 12,000kg per hectare;  last year it was 14,000kg but this year, according to reports in The Wall Street Journal, it is going to be 9,700kg.

As Non-Vintage champagne is typically aged in bottle for a minimum of two years (by law it must be 15 months and Nomine prescribe a minimum of three years), you can envisage the vast number of bottles snoozing in cellars all over the region.  The global slowdown in consumption could lead to significant over supply if it takes a while for sales to recover (export and French domestic - France is the largest consumer by miles), so I suspect that 2009’s restricted yield is intended to avoid this as much as to preserve quality.

Has the World forgotten Winston Churchill’s musing (apparently adapted from Napoleon) that “in victory we deserve it (champagne) and in defeat we need it”?!  Interesting fact that Churchill’s Pol Roger champagne consumption increased in 1942 from its 1941 levels - much to the angst of the budget bureaucrats - as the tempo of World War II accelerated, according to facts from the Churchill museum at the Cabinet War Rooms.  Proof indeed of the universal relevance of champagne!

And all this on the 70th anniversary of the day Britain had to declare war on Germany;  wow!

Chamagne bottles aging in cellars below Epernay