Alastair\'s Blog

Posts Tagged ‘production’

L’escalier (the staircase)

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

Last month the secateurs were drawn, wielded, stripped down and re-holstered ready for the 2010 harvest.  The 100,000 or so casual harvesters who descended from all over Europe have moved on to their next project and the Champagne region regains an air of normality.  The focus is now on getting supplies prepared and shipped to cover the Christmas peak demand.

October sees the first fermentation occur under temperature controlled conditions and in stainless steel tanks.  The wines are stored individually according to grape and in the case of exceptional plots of land which give a unique flavour to the wines, by village or plot (cru).  I an visiting at the end of this month with one of my daughters and may have the opportunity to taste the still wines from the tanks …  looking forward very much to that and to learning what youthful “exceptional” tastes like.

Great news for us is that personalised champagne through Parklane online grows in popularity daily.  We actually receive positive feedback from customers regularly - which is a surprise but a nice one - and an overwhelming comment has been our efficiency.  Apparently this is not sufficiently emphasised on the internet site.

I puzzled over this comment with Nick but the reality is that we didn’t see a need to emphasise efficiency, or politeness, or next day delivery, or tissue wrapped bottles or helpful employees - because that comes as standard.  So because those traits are the norm for us we didn’t see the need to explain it!  Still, with expectation management in mind I think it is best to appear average but actually deliver well above average so everyone gets that warm and cosy feeling.

Fortunately any negative comments have been minimal!  Constructive criticism has been great to receive and all of which we have incorporated into the beta version of the site coming this month.

As the nights draw-in and the clocks go back, our pace builds to frenetic to ensure all customers get only the best service.  And that is the bit that worries me;  normally with our traditional clients, demand is planned in advance.  In the online world, demand arrives at the press of a mouse and without any warning so I am quite sure that there will be moments when we need to hold onto our hats, or more.  I am just hoping that the “new for 2009″ night shift does not need to run for too long!

So, much like the X-Factor hopefuls, we are having an interesting (or is it amazing?) “journey”!  Ours started somewhat earlier than the class of 2009 and is likely to go on for longer.  There is lots to learn and we are improving all the time so I suppose we might need to get the teeth whitened soon… or at least the champagne equivalent of.

Bon voyage.

Harvest - snip snip

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

So my champagne blog update continues!  This is really a very very interesting time of year for champagne wine and its production - with a manic burst of activity universal across all 30,000 hectares of vineyards that make up the appellation.

Today it happened;  from all over Europe teams of people descended on the vines in the main Champagne region to start 2009’s harvest in earnest.  All harvesting of the grapes in Champagne is carried out by hand so it really does need plenty of people.

The harvest will last a fortnight or so, with different areas starting at different times - Nomine plan to start on the 14th - and the Aube area started at the beginning of the week.  Interesting that “Champagne” is one appellation but that the region is in two distinct areas with the Aube (mainly Pinot grapes) actually 100k or so further south…  Anyone who has travelled down the Autoroute A26, maybe en route to holiday skiing or to the South, must have slightly puzzled over this.

On a personal note, I am curious to see how laden the vines are once the harvest is over, considering the reduced permitted yield this year.  However, with 2000kg/hectare heading to blockage (juice held in reserve for future years but which cannot yet start the production process) and the ever growing demand for ethanol, industrial alcohol and biofuels, I am sure there will hardly be any grapes left on the vines.

For Park Lane, we can be assured of continued quality, even though the product of this harvest will not be with us in non-vintage form until mid 2013 at the earliest.  Always somewhat sobering (no pun intended) to think that the current bottles of non-vintage champagne available through us originate from grapes harvested back in 2005!   Nomine are great quality recoltant producers but even they must get somewhat fed-up at what looks like market manipulation by all those big houses and negociants.  I will look forward to learning more when I visit towards the end of this month.

And my children went back to school today - with the eldest two now 8.15am to 6pm;  by any standards that is a good day’s work!

Update from the vineyards

Friday, July 17th, 2009

July is a steady month in the champagne vineyards but one which is critical for the harvest in September;  it is the month where the grapes which were newly formed after fertilisation during June’s flowering develop on the vines.

Temperature averages 24.7c during the month but nonetheless the annual average is still only 10c!  As grapes cannot ripen below an average of 9c, it is easy to see why warm (but not scorching!) summer months of July and August are essential for a good harvest - and why Champagne is the most northerly wine producing region in Europe.  There is, of course, debate about this given the arguments over climate change - but more of that anon…

As France traditionally holidays for the majority of August, much of the preparation for the harvest (typically second or third week of September - 100 days after the flowering) is carried out by producers all over the region in anticipation of that critical moment.

The photograph shows clearly how vines are grown on relatively small parcels of land and that only the best bits are suitable for grape production - hence the patch of wheat sandwiched between vineyards being harvested by the yellow combine!

Champagne vineyards in July (photograph taken 18 July 2005)

Champagne vineyards in July (photograph taken 18 July 2005)

Posted by: Alastair