Alastair\'s Blog

Archive for November, 2009

Low hanging fruit

Monday, November 30th, 2009

unpicked fruit on the vinesNope, not Google fruit but genuine champagne grape fruit!

I was amazed by the amount of unpicked fruit on the vines during my October visit to the Champagne region.  The reason was the restriction in yield at harvest due to the excess buildup of bottles as global demand slumped;  permitted yield was down from 14,000kg/hectare at 2008 harvest to 9,700 kg/hectare, as I have already covered.

This is not the whole story, though.  The Champenois have a cunning buffer stock called blockage which is held by the houses.  Pinot Noir - surplus to requirementsEffectively this is pressed juice that cannot be used for a certain time and which is intended to subsidise yield in the event of a truly awful harvest in the future.  2,000kg/hectare headed to top the blockage stocks up to their maximum limit this year and the balance of the juice went off to become industrial alcohol.  As it was such a prolific harvest, the producers could afford to be highly selective - hence why so many grapes were left for the birds.  Interestingly, it was mainly black grapes that I spotted on the vines across the region.

What does it mean for us as consumers?  That the future is steady and assured I suspect.  There is plenty of good quality stock available and great stuff in the pipeline from the harvest of 2009.  The easing of demand has taken the relentless growth pressure out of champagne generally and has caused producers to focus again on quality.  Hopefully there will also be some fairness on price to act Example personalised bottleas a sort of demand stimulus, particularly while the £/€ equation is so horrid.

close up of a personalised labelThere will be a glut of supermarket cut price champagne offers in the UK this year as we run up to Christmas.  In fact, this has been the pattern for the past few years so no change there.  These headline grabbers are highly restricted offers and are being subsidised by the supermarkets so they can secure our grocery purchases at the same time.  Scary fact: Tesco handles 1 in every 4 bottles of wine sold in the UK as an “off” sale, according to the Daily Telegraph on Saturday!

For personalised champagne we see no change at all.  The quality of the bubbly is already good and will continue being good.  Demand is strong as we receive more and varied requests from different customers.  Big format bottles have been surprisingly popular with magnums and jeroboams leading the chase.  AND the Christmas rush is on us, somewhat later than usual following the pattern of last year, but nonetheless showing us plenty of challenges to come over the next three weeks.Some jeros en route back to Park Lane

The Park Lane 2010 plans are for diversification into different markets online - led by our customers and other interested partners.  A beta version of the site will arrive with a more focused range of products and enhanced label creation functionality.  In the background, however, we will still be spinning the exercise wheel as fast as we can to keep our five star service up to speed.  Haven’t we been here before?!

Only 23 online shopping days to go until the big fella is squeezing down your chimney…

Lurgies and leaves

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

We need cold weather;  really really cold please.  Not for any viticultural purpose but rather to drive away these horrid lurgies that are everywhere!

Amazing how a dose of the ‘flu (was it really swine flu?) quickly causes the rose tinted specs to fall off and crack - particularly when a household of children also fall victim to different illnesses one by one - and the in-tray gets ever fuller….  I am sure this is the story from all over England at the moment so musn’t grumble, and all that.

dsc_0404

And as to leaves?  Well when I visited Epernay at the very end of October, Green at the top and brown at the bottom?!several producers commented on my excellent timing as I was caught in those few days when it was possible to see every colour of leaf on the vineyards.  I agreed how spectacular the whole area looked - like a giant patchwork quilt.   On closer inspection, I was also muddled - why were the browner leaves at the lower levels and the greener ones further up the hills when surely it should be the other way round?

dsc_0337The answer - which does seem like reverse logic - is that the frost hits the valleys first while the vineyards higher up are more protected.   The leaves certainly confirmed this explanation.  Imagine the effect this has all year round on the individual vineyards - whether rain or sun, snow or frost .

So there it is: many factors contribute to the magical terroir and they all go to determining how and why particular grapes develop as they do.  Plenty of fruit left on the vines this year...Of course, with champagne the blending process (of grapes and years) is intended to iron out these vagaries, but it still helps to understand all the components of quality.  This is what Herve hopes to achieve with his focus on vineyard quality at Ayala.

Due to medicinal imposition, the enforced break from champagne has been most unwelcome;  bring on that cold weather and soon!

Champagne Ayala

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

ayalazdFascinating yesterday evening to meet Herve Augustin, President Directeur General of Champagne Ayala, at a private masterclass tasting of his champagnes.

Ayala is an old Champagne House (Maison de Champagne) founded in 1860 that for the last couple of decades had somewhat lost its way.  Neighbouring Bollinger and Raoul Collet in the Grand Cru (pinot noir grape) village of Ay just outside Epernay, potential and history were aplenty;  reputation and direction maybe needed to play catch-up.

All that changed in 2005 when Bollinger bought the business.  Herve came across from Bollinger and brought vision and experience to Ayala.  His brief from M Montgolfier (patron of Bollinger) was not to reproduce Bollinger next door, but rather to do something completely different.  This he has done.

“Zero dosage” (no additional sugar) or “Nature” (natural) is the new hallmark of the house.  In typical non-vintage Brut (dry) champagne, there is up to 15g of sugar per litre added as dosage (special mixture of sugar and reserve wine) to top up the bottle and tweak the style at the end of the production process - when the bottles have been brought up from their aging and second fermentation in the cellars and disgorged (had the seal and yeasty sediment removed).  To go for zero dosage (ie. absolutely no sugar at all) is brave.  Herve believes it brings his champagnes into focus as premium quality wines where the quality and origin of the grape becomes the over-riding and single most important factor in the taste;  the significance of terroir featuring again!

I agree.  Herve is a pioneer;  he has zero dosage non-vintage, vintage and rose.  His champagne are scrummy, elegant and very well made but they are quite distinct.  More of a considered glass than a straightforward quaff.  I believe these are champagnes for the real connoisseur.

My favourite of the evening!

The principal benefit to Bolllinger for buying Ayala, I suspect, is quality.  Bollinger have a fabulous reputation with the best winegrowers in the region across all the Premier and Grand Cru villages.  To save reneging on grape purchase contracts from these super vineyards, Bollinger can divert any surplus grapes across to Ayala so that Herve & Co have the very best ingredients to work with - hence the zero dosage policy.

Herve believes it will take a generation to revive the reputation of Ayala.  In the meantime, his champagnes are effectively subsidised in price while the brand and style become established in the UK.  If you can, buy some!  My favourite was the Vintage 2000 (Perle d’Ayala) and it was really very good - with a cheeky 7.5g of sugar at dosage just to polish up the roundness.

We don’t sell Herve’s champagne (should we?) but I know a man who does if you are interested…  Sorry for all the technical speak but I hope you can navigate through.  Any questions, please ask!

Ayala produce only 700,000 bottles across all their cuvees in a typical year and purchase 95% of their grapes from winegrowers, with a dominance towards Premier and Grand Cru quality.

Bovril

Sunday, November 1st, 2009

Very fun and somewhat exciting to read through the UK weekend press and see pictures of possibly our favourite highland cow covered in the well used decorator’s sheet (as explained in my earlier blog post) in both the Daily Telegraph and Sunday Mail.

Please could everyone keep an eye out for any spottings of the Bovril outdoors revival advert featuring our beastie - and add the details as a comment to this post.   PLEASE and free bottle of champagne for the most unusual spot!

Many thanks.

Bovril "Doing up the great outdoors"